KVA Build Photographs
Updated 21st January 2001
This first picture shows the front section of the KVA chassis as received from KVA
Here are two photos of the modification that I made to the chassis to carry the Ford Cortina
steering rack. In hindsight I would have tilted the additions slightly toward the driver so as to
make the installation of the steering column easier. The Cortina steering rack just needs about
1/2" cut off the threads on each end and it fits exactly, although you do have to fit stops on the
rack to prevent the wheels turning to far and touching the side of the body tub.
One modification that I would do if I were building my car again would be to install additional chassis members to make the seals to the fibre glass easier and also make the panelling easier. It also makes the arrangement look more like the arrangement used on the original cars. This next picture show the arrangement on another KVA and also illustrates the arch tunnel through the centre of the car to resemble the original and cover the cooling water pipes. It also shows an alternative chassis modification to carry the steering rack.
This next photo shows the centre section of the chassis as received from KVA
This photo shows the rear section of the chassis as received from KVA
This photo shows the rear section of the chassis with modified engine mounts. The original
engine mounts that were for the Ford 302 V8 engine were fine but about 4" to high as the
carburetors were actually about 2" above the roof line when the engine was first offered up in
place. Again in hindsight I would make the chassis engine mounts removable as the side pods on
the modified engine sump is slightly wider than the gap between the engine mounts and
consequently you have to feed the engine into place with the sump pods under the tops of the
engine mounts. It would be much easier if the engine and mounts could just be dropped straight
in and then bolted up, although you would have to make sure that they are very firmly fixed.
The other thing that this photo shows is the error I made with the bulkhead panelling. The
removable section in the centre was not wide enough to allow access to the pulley belt adjusters
and front of engine components. This was subsequently modified.
One of the first things that I did after the initial few days work was to build myself a mobile
base on which I could build the car and which raised it to a respectable working high. The 40"
high sports car is very good to drive but you soon get back ache working on it at floor level. At
that time I did not have a car hoist and my garage did not have sufficient height to allow me to
install one. Now that I have moved to France I have a very large workshop and have recently
installed a four post car hoist. It is one of the most used tools in the workshop.
These next two photos show the assembly of the rear suspension on the KVA chassis. The
upright is fabricated steel and rather heavy, I have now obtained aluminium uprights similar to the
original and am in the course of manufacturing a new rear suspension using these uprights with
double ended adjustment (L/H & R/H threaded) on all the suspension arms.
I decided to make the sill tanks as large as possible so as to carry as much fuel as possible.
They run the full length of the sills and are shaped to the curvature of the sill. They are made of
aluminium and are fitted with baffles at three positions along their length, the baffles have three
3/8" diameter holes at the top and one 3/8" diameter hole at the bottom this seems to work quite
well and I don't get surge problems. I went for this rather than a foam filled tank as these seem to
take for ever to fill. The filler pipe is on the top at the front and the supply pipe can be seen at the
bottom rear of the tank. A further vent pipe is fitted at the front of the top and is taken to dash
level to a non return anti-spill vent to atmosphere. The filler gauge actuator is fitted in the front
face of the tank although many people have mounted tube type gauge actuators in the top of the
tanks. The tanks are fitted with mountings on the top and these are bolted to the sill chassis
members with rubber shock mounts. They have now been installed for around 10 years and I have
not had any problem with them. Each tank hold 10 gallons of petrol.
The sill tops were made about 2" wider than the chassis members, this extra width in on the
inside and allows space for the rod gear shift linkage, brake pipes, heater and air conditioning
pipes, and electrics. This ductway is repeated on the passengers side. The original GT40's had
wide sills which my arrangement matches quite well. In the original of course these wide sills
were all occupied by fuel tanks giving a capacity of 32 gallons in all. These sill tops are fixed with
screws to allow removal for access to this service duct.
The rear bodywork on the original cars was held on with a removeable under pan which faired in the underside on the gearbox and provided a a roll on roll off support for the rear fibre glass bodywork. This is a very good arrangement and many have now copied this design. The original chassis was of course part monocoque and part tubular.
Now for a few bits on the fibre glass the first two show the air duct that I fitted to the underside of the bonnet (hood) to duct air from the two small vents on the bonnet (hood) to the passenger tub, the next two show the inner wings that were added to the front section, similar ones were added to the rear section. And finally the fourth picture shows the larger and deeper light boxes that cover the rear of the front light cluster, the original one's were far to shallow and did not lend themselves to fitting sensible adjustment facilities for the head and spot lights.
The gear shift linkage must of course be positive and provide some feel or feed back to the driver. As the gearbox is right at the back of the car the linkage is very long and the route is not easy. Some solve this problem by using push pull cables but whilst these work OK they dont provide any feel and provide control that is usually very stiff and un-feeling. Rod linkage is far better and if designed correctly provides very good control. Having tried several different designs initially none of which worked well, I went back to basics and designed a system that virtually eliminated the slack and spring that is the failure in rod systems. The gearbox selector shaft is brought out of the right hand side of the gearbox by modification of the existing shaft, this is on the Renault or Audi boxes, however the basic construction is the same with most boxes. The gear selector shaft has to rotate and move sideways to select the gears. For the rod linkage I used 1/2" diameter bright steel bar. The first section of rod linkage is mounted with two rose joints through which it can slide easily without any side movement, these rose joints are fitted to the gearbox side by purpose made brackets which are also of sufficient strength to eliminate any movement in the rose joint. At the rearward end of the this rod a drop arm about 3-4" long made of angle or square section tube for rigidity is welded on and at the other end a universal joint is fitted and pinned to prevent any rotation or movement on the rod. A similar drop arm 3-4" long is fitted to the gear box selector shaft, this is made from 1/2" diameter bright steel rod. A rose joint is mounted on the bottom of the drop arm on the rod and secured firmly, the drop rod from the gear box selector shaft is taken through the eye of this rose joint. This should be a good sliding fit through the rose joint. The second section of rod is mounted along the side members of the chassis from the drivers gear shift position to the bulkhead between the engine compartment and the cabin. This rod is mounted on two more slide fit rose joints which are mounted firmly to the chassis. at the rear end of this rod a universal joint is fitted firmly and then the two universal joints on the two sections of rod are joined together by a further section of rod. At the front end of the chassis mounted rod a forked end (Y shape) is mounted. The gear shift lever has a flat on it or is made from flat metal and is attached to this fork by a pin that allows the shift lever to rotate back and forth on this pivot pin and secures it positively to the rod in any sideways movements, these sideways movements will rotate the rod linkage. The bottom end of the gear shift lever is forked with a parallel slot cut into it. A smooth sided pin it attached to the chassis about 3-4" below the pivot pin on the rod end fork, this protrudes sideways into the car about 2". The forked slot in the bottom of the shift lever fits over this pin and should be a free sliding fit over the pin. As this pin is fixed firmly to the chassis, movement of the shift lever top, forward or backward, will pull or push the rod linkage, the sideways movements of the shift lever that enable the rod linkage rotation and is not compromised by this pin as it can slide along it's length in the slot on the end of the shift lever. The top of the gear shift lever can be cut to length and styled to suit your own preferences.
If you use a gearbox which has the gear selector shaft out of the back of the gearbox instead of the side a similar arrangement to this linkage can be used as these type selectors rotate and push into or pull out of the gearbox to select the gear, very similar to the side selector shaft system.
The picture below shows the adapters that are used to suit the Renault gearbox output shafts and connect them to the Lobro CV joints used on the Ford Granada drive shafts that can be modified to suit the Ford GT40.
The picture below show the dash panel with it's array of instruments. Starting from the far left they are
0-200mph Speedometer, L/H fuel tank gauge, Ammeter, Oil temperature gauge, water temperature gauge, rev counter, oil pressure gauge and finally the R/H fuel tank gauge. Below the gauges are an array of swithes to control the side, head and spot / driving lights, the air conditioning system, two fuel pumps, manual overide for the main radiator cooling fans which are normally thermostatically controlled, the cooling fan on the oil cooling radiator and the gearbox oil circulation pump and it's cooling fan. Plus of course the ignition switch and hazard warning lights switch and fog light switch and indicator. Other indicators include the oil pressure warning light, ignition light and main beam indicator. At either end of the dash panel are the bullseye vents that are supplied with fresh air from the vents on the front bonnet (hood) that is ducted across the underside of the fibreglass as shown on previous photo's and is then taken via a seal onto the front bulkhead and then via a small fan and flexible ducting to the associated bullseye fitting. Along side the vents are small switches to control the fresh air inlet fans. Below the bullseye fittings are rectangular vents which are ducted to the under dash combined air conditioning evaporator and heating cell, this unit is fitted with two twin speed fans providing four levels of fan assistance for the air conditioning air flow. The switch and fan control for the air conditioning is on the dash. That just about completes the electrics on the dash. The dash top demisting grill is that from the Mk3 Ford Granada and this is ducted from the air conditioning system. This accounts for three of the four outlets on the air conditioning unit, the fourth and final outlet on the air conditioning unit is ducted to the front end of the footwell to a suitable louvred grill with manual remote control for adjustment of air flow to provide heating or cooling at foot level as required.
This next photo shows a alternative setup to the between seats handbrake with modification to the central chassis and additional fittings for an under dash hand brake similar to the setup used on the original cars. The original handbrake operated on the footbrake mechanism to make use of the hydraulic braking system.
The fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator setup is located on the bulkhead on either side of the engine and are separately cotrolled from switches on the dash panel. If using the Facit pumps the red top version should be used and note that these as well as most over pumps of this type need to be mounted virtically or near to vertical otherwise they get small particals in the valves and then fail at the worst possible time. (Murphey's Law) The picture also shows the header tank for the engine cooling water.
The gearbox that I first installed was the Renault 21 turbo box (Type UN1) this got exceedingly hot when I used the car on the track or took any high speed long distance runs. To combat this I installed an electric circulation pump and took oil from the gearbox and passed it through a cooling radiator, The picture belows show the pump and cooler installation. The Renault gearbox proved unsuitable for the power that my engine was producing or possibly the way I used the car !!, it failed on several occasions. I have now changed this for an Audi gearbox (Type 016) which is far better and has not given any problem since it's installation two / three years ago.
I will add additional photos and explanation to the above selection to show other stages in the build as
time allows, if you have any specific need please e-mail me and I will endeavour to put
information up on the web site